Wine Abroad: Portugal

As the seventh largest producer of wine in the world, Portugal is at a crossroads between the Old and New World. Its reputation is based on Port, the fortified dessert wine of the northern Douro Valley. Most of the reputable wine country is in and around this part of Portugal, although Alentejo, in the far south, is producing table wines of distinction.

Ports, which range in style from White, Ruby, Tawny and Vintage, are unctuous and capable of great age. And, despite admirable attempts from California and Australia, many serious Port drinkers believe these wines are unrivaled.

However, driven by their abundance of indigenous varieties and the desire to compete on a global scale, vintners around the Douro Valley and nearby Dao (up-and-coming for quality and value) are replanting the vines with table wines in mind. Touriga Nacional, the main grape found in Port, as well as Tinta Roriz and Touriga Francesca, can produce rich and complex dry red wines. Malvasia Fina and Verdelho (which goes into Madeira) produce aromatically beautiful white wines.

White and sparkling wine lovers can look to Vinho Verde for a crisp, light-bodied summer wine. Vinho Verde, located northwest of the Douro, has citrus and tropical fruit flavors and is meant to be enjoyed young. It is one of the lowest calorie wines (often 9 percent alcohol) on the market. Because of its excellent acidity and natural effervescence, it pairs with a wide variety of foods. Vinho Verde is also an excellent value, with most bottles costing less than $10.

Suggested producers: Fonseca, Quinta do Crasto, Croft, Famega.